The following rain barrel construction project was done by Scott Dixon from Rexburg, Idaho – rain barrel configuration and parts supplied by Aaron’s Rain Barrels.
Step 1. Construction of the Rain Barrels Base
Because we had some summer storms coming, I constructed a temporary base for the barrels made of concrete blocks and 2×4 studs. Everything was leveled and the barrels were put in their final position so that connecting tube lengths could be estimated.
Step 2. Positioning the Diverter
A proper height of the diverter was selected so that the mounting flanges of the diverter could be screwed just above the lower edge of the metal siding of the house. At this point the rain downspout was marked to be cut.
Step 3. Cutting the Downspout
The rain downspout was removed and cut on a chop saw for a clean, straight cut. I cut out a section of the downspout that was equivalent to the length needed by the diverter so that all existing mounting straps at the bottom of the downspout would still be usable. This resulted in a clean installation.
Step 4. Mounting the Downspout and Diverter
The upper section of the downspout was reconnected to the rain gutter. I used an awl to align one of the existing holes while I re-inserted the other screws. I then positioned the diverter in place and screwed it to the metal siding of the house. Finally, I positioned the bottom section of the downspout and re-attached it to the house.
Step 5. Connecting the Barrels to Each Other
I measured and cut lengths of the tubing to connect the barrels in their proper position. To make it easier to slide the tubing over the connectors, I placed the tubes in hot tap water for 30 seconds. This softened the tube and it easily slid onto the connectors. Because there would be no high water pressure, I did not use hose clamps here.
Step 6. Connecting the Diverter to the Barrels
The last step was to connect the tubes between the diverter and the rain barrels. I originally used the two white tubes provided, but then decided to use one clear tube so any observers could see the water running through the tube. Before attaching the end of the tube to the connectors, I again placed the tube end in hot tap water to soften the tube. Then the tubes were attached. I used hose-clamps to secure the upper end of the tube at the diverter, so that the tube did not come off. Finally, I used one zip-tie to hold the tubes to the downspout so they didn’t move in the wind. The installation was complete and took about 2 hours, not counting time to the hardware store to buy extra tubing and hose clamps.
We’ve had three storms since the installation and all three barrels are 3/4 full. -Thanks