Step 1. Construction of the Rain Barrels Base

Because we had some summer storms coming, I constructed a temporary base for the barrels made of concrete blocks and 2×4 studs. Everything was leveled and the barrels were put in their final position so that connecting tube lengths could be estimated.

Step 2. Positioning the Diverter

A proper height of the diverter was selected so that the mounting flanges of the diverter could be screwed just above the lower edge of the metal siding of the house. At this point the rain downspout was marked to be cut.

Step 3. Cutting the Downspout

The rain downspout was removed and cut on a chop saw for a clean, straight cut. I cut out a section of the downspout that was equivalent to the length needed by the diverter so that all existing mounting straps at the bottom of the downspout would still be usable. This resulted in a clean installation.

Step 4. Mounting the Downspout and Diverter

The upper section of the downspout was reconnected to the rain gutter. I used an awl to align one of the existing holes while I re-inserted the other screws. I then positioned the diverter in place and screwed it to the metal siding of the house. Finally, I positioned the bottom section of the downspout and re-attached it to the house.

Step 5. Connecting the Barrels to Each Other

I measured and cut lengths of the tubing to connect the barrels in their proper position. To make it easier to slide the tubing over the connectors, I placed the tubes in hot tap water for 30 seconds. This softened the tube and it easily slid onto the connectors. Because there would be no high water pressure, I did not use hose clamps here.

Step 6. Connecting the Diverter to the Barrels

The last step was to connect the tubes between the diverter and the rain barrels. I originally used the two white tubes provided, but then decided to use one clear tube so any observers could see the water running through the tube. Before attaching the end of the tube to the connectors, I again placed the tube end in hot tap water to soften the tube. Then the tubes were attached. I used hose-clamps to secure the upper end of the tube at the diverter, so that the tube did not come off. Finally, I used one zip-tie to hold the tubes to the downspout so they didn’t move in the wind. The installation was complete and took about 2 hours, not counting time to the hardware store to buy extra tubing and hose clamps.

We’ve had three storms since the installation and all three barrels are 3/4 full. -Thanks

The old site of Fairview Hospital in Salem, Oregon, is now being paved with green streets and a large rainwater harvesting neighborhood.

Normally the storm runoff from houses, streets, curbs, sidewalks, driveways, lawns and so on, would find its way out to lovely Pringle Creek, thus poisoned by the city pollution.

The streets are made from porous asphalt that soaks up rain with beautiful planters along the roadside in the place of gutters and galleries, thereby returning 90% of the storm runoff to the aquifer.

The porous asphalt soaks in the rain, where it drains to the soil below a thick layer of rock. Large swaths of land — called bioswales — next to the roads will be planted with grasses, bushes and mosses that absorb water and filter contaminants, such as oil that leaks from cars.

“It’s not only very attractive landscaping, they are also functioning,” Myers said.

The 32-acre property will now hold some 180 homes and become a living example of greener urban living in Oregon, especially for Salem residents who are proud of the endeavor.

Only 10 percent of the normal runoff from the 32-acre urban lot will actually make its way into the creek, creating a far more sustainable environment for everyone.

The total rainwater harvesting catchments system for returning 90 percent of the runoff to the aquifer, clean and potable will include 5,400 feet of green streets and 2,300 feet of green alleys, all of which are private property, as the state does not allow this new and relatively untested technology in public transportation as of yet.

50 projects per year are granted by the state involving porous materials, and 1,000 bioswales projects per year. All of which go to lighter loads such as sidewalks and parking lots.

Pringle Creek is the state-of-the-art example of what residential people can do with water before it leaves their yards and goes into the streets, creeks and ocean,” said Sally Miller, who plans to live in Pringle Creek Community. “All of the things that Pringle Creek is doing costs society a lot less money because there are no pollutants in the creek, so the fish are safer to eat. … If we all did that as a society, we would all be more healthy.

Related:
Pringle Creek Community – Pringle Creek Community Website.

The kusari-doi, or rain chain is a Japanese invention that has been around for hundreds of years as a way to direct rainwater from the roof into a basin for drinking. Rain chains usually come with a water basin made from copper or stone to catch the water from the roof. A rain chain can come in many different styles and materials, to this day in fact, in Japan; people still make them by hand from copper. A copper rain chain will enhance the aesthetic nature of any house or garden, but in the past they have been associated with the Japanese tea ceremony.

In the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, rain chains are used near the waiting bench where people wait to be admitted into the tea house. The long walk to the tea house through an elaborate zen-budist garden will finally end up in front of the waiting patio, before entering the tea house itself, where there is a bench to sit upon and take ones shoes off. This is the perfect place to find a rain chain glistening with the sound of trickling water from the rooftop, giving spiritual meaning to the whole.

Both in western architecture and traditional eastern methods of aesthetic decoration such as Fung Shui for example, the rain chain makes an impressive addition to any roof. The sound of running water down a rain chain and into a basin is just one of the more beautiful aspects of a rain chain, but more importantly that it serves a purpose (to direct rainwater). Perhaps creative gardeners, or do-it-yourselfers, are looking for something like this to filter water before reverting it into a cistern; however, this system is too small for such an idea.

This is why funnel style rain chains work better than cup style, because a cup style rain chain could become far too heavy to support its own weight, and could break. A funnel style rain chain allows the water to constantly flow down its length in place of a downspout while rain chains that look like interweaving double rings will splash a lot of water around the original trajectory. Materials range from copper to plastic, and are hand made to this day in Japan.

People who make copper rain chains by hand are the ones who have been doing this for generations, and pass it on from father to son. But even in Japan the modern eye of industrialization has developed them into a market. The Japanese may pay anywhere from 200 – 500 US$ and up while buying the finished product in Japan. But outside of Japan, the rain chain is the work of tinkers and artesians, and almost lost art. Thus finding them means finding them custom made.

To make a copper rain chain is a patient and refined task that for the Japanese is a kind of meditation as well as production. Copper is a natural metal used in religious ceremonies and revered as part of the spiritual experience, so working with such a noble mettle is making ones thoughts noble as well. Very subjective, yet very much a part of the tradition that developed the art of rain chain crafting. Understanding how the Japanese make copper rain chains is just as beautiful as the rain chain itself balancing to and from the gutter.

Buy other rain chains here! Thank you!

Brett Martinson and Terry Thomas of the DTU School of Engineering ( who also did a study on inlet filtration ) have another interesting file on first flush diversion that you might want to take a look at.

First Flush Diversion Study

The DTU has studied rooftop turbidities from a good variety of roofing materials in several different countries over the last couple of years. I will not get into the details but simply remind you that first flush is only one step in the process of removing sediment and does not make rainwater pure. Think of first flush diversion as rooftop particle removal, a first step in the process of making water ready for purification.

The French drain is basically a trench filled with gravel. This trench is meant to keep the water runoff from a sloping piece of land to be rerouted in a productive manner. It was invented in Concord by the farmer/judge Henry French (Harvard Graduate). When surface water (such as heavy rain) is invading any given area where there is a serious drainage problem, this could be the key to recovering flooded areas.

The French drain first came into the public eye in the year 1859 when Mr. French first published his book on farm drainage, in Concord, Massachusetts. The whole beauty of his idea came from careful observation. For it was not his diploma in law that showed him the ways of the land, it was his keen eye for observation and the ways of Mother Nature. He knew, like all simple farmers do, that water runs downhill, and just loves to accumulate in the most inconvenient of locations. Suffering from constant flooding, Henry French kept paying attention to water behavior until he figured out the best way to make sure water would run in the direction he wanted, without trying to go against Nature’s natural laws. Thus he figured out the concept of what we now call a French drain.

Not only did Mr. French discover this interesting style of drainage he also came up with many other drainage solutions and strategies for an ongoing problem. But what makes the French drain stand out from all the others? The fact that it is a drain that needs little to no upkeep. Most drains suffer from the same problem, over and over. His system design was developed around the idea of a common ditch/trench or gutter/pipe system of drainage that had already previously existed. The problem with a trench or ditch system is that they backup and get clogged easily. But gravel… Yes gravel, small stones from broken boulders. Gravel works like a screen filter would. Usually, there should be at least one foot of slope in the trench for every 100 feet of horizontal catchment (which means it gets deeper, the closer to the drain pipe it gets). It keeps the surface water flowing without the other stuff that comes along with it in really heavy rain. The bigger the rocks, the faster the water will flow.

Speed is not all there is to an efficient drain design. If the water runoff is effecting the foundation of a house, by constantly accumulating for long periods until such time as it evaporates or seeps down into the ground, this could seriously compromise the structural integrity, such as with wet basements. Digging a sloping trench and merely filling it with gravel, won’t solve this problem, in fact, it could worsen such problems. So in order to fix any possible situations, the best thing to do would be to put down a layer of flexible landscape fabric (usually polyethylene), over the channel, or pipe being used for drainage. In the case of a pipe system (characteristic of this style), the landscape fabric will ensure that all the water gets into the pipe, without debris clogging the pipe entrance, as in the case of pipe screens (or kitchen sinks).

Ensuring that the French drain will not create seepage or water damage to any other nearby structures, there is also the factor of clean and well kept drains. In other words, is it going to go with the rest of the yard? This factor is what determines the way a French drain looks after it is all done. By just placing a layer of coarse sand over the top of the gravel and then turf grass over that, it is possible to make it almost invisible to the human eye, unless showing off is the point, in which case the top layer is chosen in accordance to taste (perhaps multi colored river pebbles).

By adding sand to the layers of gravel in a French drain, the water not only gets through the pipe drain (initial reason for this style), but also lends to purifying it for domestic consumption (bath, hose, cloths… etc.). Putting a top layer, gives the whole system a final look (which may or may not be important) for that given system’s design. French drain’s most important feature is the way they filter surface water without requiring daily maintenance. The pipes’ in French drains rarely, if ever get filled with debris, and water flows freely, keeping the water clean while recovering flooded areas.

I often have people ask me about using Gutter Guards to eliminate runoff debris that collects in a rain barrel or rainwater harvesting system. What I have told them is that I am no expert on gutter protection but what I suspect is that they are only good for filtering large debris like leaves, twigs and branches. My suspicion was correct; I pried up a gutter guard on a friend’s garage and took a look. I found no clogged leaves or debris; rather, I found what I refer to as “gutter goop”, a thick sludge of microorganisms that took to living a healthy life in the dark, moist environment of the covered gutter.

Gutter guards come in all different shapes but ALL do the same thing. A gutter guard or cover goes over an existing gutter to prevent leaves and other debris from falling in and clogging the downspout tube. In the event a downspout tube were to become clogged, drainage from a rooftop could back up and run down the side of a house and into windows or soak the earth close to a foundation contributing to a leaky basement.

Gutter Guard Installation – Safety

Note: If you are planning on installing a gutter guard be aware that one of the most common accidents that happens to the “do it yourself” homeowner involves the ladder. If a ladder is set on soft ground and you climb it to secure a gutter guard, it can tip and you could fall, so please be careful.

In conclusion, gutter guards do exactly what the manufacturers of these devices claim they do; they prevent your gutter from clogging and will allow water to run freely through the downspout to the ground or whatever harvesting system you may have in place. As I said before, a gutter guard will not remove the microorganisms that stagnate rainwater and should only be used as one part of a complete solution to filter rainwater.

This page: Gutter Guard

I enjoy searching the internet for new drainage products because these materials can often be used in multiple applications. Here is a new drainage product called the smart drain which is an interesting drainage material.

How does this drainage product work?

This drainage product uses capillary action and requires very little head pressure to start working. In saturated conditions it draws water into its micro channels then provides additional drainage force to whisk the water away from the drainage area. You simply dig up a few inches of soil and roll the material into place.

Drainage Product Benefits

1. Uses no mechanical equipment, nice!
2. Leaves just enough moisture to ensure optimum conditions for growth of grasses and trees.
3. Can work in any soil type.
4. Unlike ordinary perforated pipe, it doesn’t clog. Moreover the excess water is filtered, which reduces soil runoff, what you have left is clean water.
5. It is also very easy to work with.

Drainage Product Review

I have contacted smart drain about this material and would like to get a piece to test it out in a rainwater filtration system which will give me an idea of what it can do. What I can say is that if this material can do what they claim it does it can be used in all kinds of applications. Will keep you updated on this promising drainage product.

Here is a video clip brought to you by smart drain, click image below to see this material in use.

Quite often there is a danger in selecting low quality cheap items to include in your rainwater harvesting system without first carefully examining if they are really capable of performing the task or tasks that they are supposed to.

A good example here is the gutter strainer. Actually this is a key item in any rainwater harvesting system that may seem simple enough. Deceptively so. A gutter strainer is an important tool in the first step of the process of harvesting rainwater which is the removal of debris, leaves and host of other particles and solids that could easily end up in the rainwater harvesting storage tank making it much more difficult to take the water to the next stage of the filtering process.

The first question you will need to ask yourself in selecting a gutter strainer is if it will be able to separate debris in he gutter but not clog the actual gutter itself and prevent the valuable rainwater from flowing unhindered into the rainwater harvesting storage tanks.

You can get really high tech and select a downspout filter. Especially for a larger rainwater harvesting system. Or you can do what most people do and purchase a low cost but effective gutter strainer. Either way you want a unit that will be efficient, effective and durable.

One needs to be very careful when dealing with items that are supposed to take the huge force that water usually exerts. You must have seen they damage that water can sometimes do, to land, buildings roads and so on. Thus it is a good idea to bear all this in mind when you are designing your rainwater harvesting system, no matter how big or small it is.

Filtering of the debris done by a gutter strainer does not mean that the water is suitable for drinking or human consumption and use. Even if the water is very clear and clean, as seen by the human eye, it will still need to be further filtered and treated against the tiny microorganisms present in water but which cannot be seen by the human eye. These microorganisms can be very dangerous and harmful to the health.

Still, ending up with water that is clean to the naked eye, apart from the tiny particles getting through that usually settle at the bottom of the tank, is usually a clear sign that your gutter strainer is working properly.

The gutter strainer pictured here and above removes leaf, pine needles and other debris that would otherwise clog your downspout. There is also room for modification, you could add a stainless screen insert and use it like you would a more expensive downspout filter. If you are looking for a quick way to remove debris from you downspout these gutter strainers work well.