StormTreat System is a bioretention storm water treatment system designed to capture and treat the first flush of stormwater runoff from impervious surfaces, removing 90% of the pollutants through mechanical, chemical and biological filtration.

Water is natures most effective solvent, and as such, along with wind and air, is the main transporter of the worlds pollutants; StormTreat System is a way for us to offset that transportation of pollutants ourselves through stewardship that makes sense.

Pollutants are effectively removed from stormwater runoffs above and beyond the call of duty with this system, the following pollutant removal data was collected over a two-year period by clients and confirmed in state-certified labs:

• Fecal Coliform 97%

• Total Suspended Solids 98%

• Chemical Oxygen Demand 82%

• Total Dissolved Nitrogen 77%

• Total Petroleum Hydrocarbon 90%

• Lead 77%

• Chromium 98%

• Phosphorus 90%

• Zinc 90%

StormTreat System has been awarded the EPA Envirotechnology Innovator Award as well as being the first stormwater treatment system to be recognized by the Massachusetts Strategic Environmental Partnership or STEP program.

STS is low maintenance, easily accessible with standard equipment and recommended for Residential Subdivisions, Lake Shores, Commercial Developments, Marinas and Landings, Industrial Sites, Parking Lots, Roads and Highways, Transportation Terminals, Reconstructions, Maintenance Facilities and Habitat Restorations.

Being a compact underground bioretention stormwater treatment system, StormTreat System uses LID (low impact development) technology, avoiding the unsightly and creating an environmentally friendly solution that is pleasing to the eye as well as the heart.

The following rain barrel construction project was done by Scott Dixon from Rexburg, Idaho – rain barrel configuration and parts supplied by Aaron’s Rain Barrels.

Step 1. Construction of the Rain Barrels Base

Because we had some summer storms coming, I constructed a temporary base for the barrels made of concrete blocks and 2×4 studs. Everything was leveled and the barrels were put in their final position so that connecting tube lengths could be estimated.

Step 2. Positioning the Diverter

A proper height of the diverter was selected so that the mounting flanges of the diverter could be screwed just above the lower edge of the metal siding of the house. At this point the rain downspout was marked to be cut.

Step 3. Cutting the Downspout

The rain downspout was removed and cut on a chop saw for a clean, straight cut. I cut out a section of the downspout that was equivalent to the length needed by the diverter so that all existing mounting straps at the bottom of the downspout would still be usable. This resulted in a clean installation.

Step 4. Mounting the Downspout and Diverter

The upper section of the downspout was reconnected to the rain gutter. I used an awl to align one of the existing holes while I re-inserted the other screws. I then positioned the diverter in place and screwed it to the metal siding of the house. Finally, I positioned the bottom section of the downspout and re-attached it to the house.

Step 5. Connecting the Barrels to Each Other

I measured and cut lengths of the tubing to connect the barrels in their proper position. To make it easier to slide the tubing over the connectors, I placed the tubes in hot tap water for 30 seconds. This softened the tube and it easily slid onto the connectors. Because there would be no high water pressure, I did not use hose clamps here.

Step 6. Connecting the Diverter to the Barrels

The last step was to connect the tubes between the diverter and the rain barrels. I originally used the two white tubes provided, but then decided to use one clear tube so any observers could see the water running through the tube. Before attaching the end of the tube to the connectors, I again placed the tube end in hot tap water to soften the tube. Then the tubes were attached. I used hose-clamps to secure the upper end of the tube at the diverter, so that the tube did not come off. Finally, I used one zip-tie to hold the tubes to the downspout so they didn’t move in the wind. The installation was complete and took about 2 hours, not counting time to the hardware store to buy extra tubing and hose clamps.

We’ve had three storms since the installation and all three barrels are 3/4 full. -Thanks